Salts, not only attack iron, wreak havoc on aluminum as well. So my choices seem to be: keep the orange Dexcool, or use Zerex Original Green, Zerex G40 Si-OAT, G-05 HOAT, Prestone Yellow. If you use a premixed product, "water is supposed to be correct" One of the easier rules to remember is that you can not mix IAT and OAT coolants OATs should stay OAT only, and IAT needs to stay exclusively IAT. Drain the water, fill, drive and repeat, do it 3-4 times and you should have over 95 of water (you will never achieve the 100). If you are worried, keep flushing the system with water and driving for a few days. If it is filled with another brand, which contains other acids, the anticorrosive properties are diluted, not the refrigerants / antifreezeĪnd all the more important to achieve 100% effectiveness of the anticorrosive properties is the "water" you use for the mixture (completely demineralized / deionized). Common HOAT Coolant Formulas: G05 Chrysler: MS-9769 Mercedes-Benz: DBL 7700.20 .0 John Deere: JDM H 24 Leyland: BLS.22.AF.01. Coolant flushes are made to work with water, they should not be used to get rid of leftover coolant. There are three main types of coolant, IAT, OAT, and HOAT, You can use any of them, as they are all broad range and are designed to be compatible with a wide range of materials like cast iron, alloys, brass, rubber etc its just some shouldn't be mixed because of the additives they contain, However Triumph will probably say you should only use. And as I said before, that different factories use different acids, if you have to refill, it should always be done with the same product (which are the same color, does not mean that it is the same). You just have to change it regularly: inorganic (1-2 years), organic (2-3years). In conclusion, any refrigerant / antifreeze, of recognized brand, organic / inorganic, in the correct proportion and being the pressurized circuit, are doing well. Another problem that usually exists, is that each manufacturer uses different types of organic acids, and the test strips are different for each manufacturer, so if you measure the level of acid and who measures it, it does not have the test strips of the brand of liquid, probably wrong measurements. Generally that small container only with acids and glycoles, you don't find it anywhere. What manufacturers recommend is to regularly measure the levels of acid / glycols in the liquid, and here is where there is a difference between organic and inorganic products and it is that organic manufacturers also offer you in a small container the additives to replace them depending on the samples, without the need to change all the cooling liquid. If the label says "refrigerant" does not mean that it will work "colder", it means that in the correct proportion, the liquid will boil above 100 C. Two types of degradation: 1) from acids (organic or inorganic), which protect you from corrosion, 2) from glycols, which protect you from boiling / freezing. ![]() Click to expand.The fact that it is organic does not mean that it does not degrade over time.
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